Beyond Diamonds: Why Coloured Gemstones Are Back in Fine Jewellery

For decades, diamonds have reigned supreme in the world of fine jewellery. But over the past few years, something beautiful has been happening: a quiet but striking return to colour.

Coloured gemstones are making their way back into the spotlight of fine jewellery - from regal emeralds to rare spinels, deep rubies to rainbow sapphires. And not just as supporting characters to diamonds, but as the stars of the show.

At The Diamond Expert, we’re seeing more and more clients drawn to the character, depth, and storytelling that coloured stones can bring to a piece. They’re seeking individuality. A deeper connection. Something that reflects them.

So what’s driving this renaissance of colour? And why might a coloured gemstone be the perfect choice for your next forever piece?

The Rise of Personalised Luxury

Today’s luxury customer wants something that feels personal, not mass-produced. Diamonds may be timeless, but they’re not the only way to mark a milestone or express style. Coloured gemstones offer a more expressive, unexpected approach. They signal taste and individuality rather than conformity.

Whether you’re drawn to the vibrant green of a Zambian emerald, the regal blue of a Ceylon sapphire, or the blush tones of a rare morganite, coloured gemstones create a dialogue with the wearer. They tell a story, and often evoke emotion in a way that a white diamond never could.

A Rich History Reclaimed

Historically, coloured gemstones were the choice of royalty and nobility. The Crown Jewels are bursting with rubies, sapphires and emeralds, long before diamonds became commercially dominant in the 20th century. In fact, it was marketing campaigns in the mid-1900s that propelled diamonds into centre stage.

Now, many are rediscovering the old-world romance of coloured gems, especially in bespoke jewellery. There’s a sense of heritage and richness to them. They feel rare. Cultured. Intriguing. Just as fine jewellery should.

A World of Possibility: Popular Coloured Gemstones

Here are just a few of the most sought-after coloured gemstones we work with at The Diamond Expert:

Sapphires

Not just blue. Sapphires come in a rainbow of colours, from pastel peach to teal to inky midnight. They’re incredibly durable, making them ideal for rings and everyday wear.

Emeralds

Known for their lush, verdant colour, emeralds have natural inclusions that give them life and character. We favour stones from Zambia and Colombia, known for their clarity and depth of colour.

Rubies

The ultimate symbol of passion, rubies range from deep crimson to vibrant cherry. High-quality rubies, especially from Burma (Myanmar), are among the rarest and most valuable gemstones in the world.

Spinels

Once mistaken for rubies, spinels are now coveted in their own right. They come in extraordinary hues such as hot pinks, purples, greys and silvery blues, and are often more brilliant than rubies.

Tourmalines & Garnets

Tourmalines offer unusual colours like watermelon, electric green and peach. Garnets range from earthy wine tones to fiery orange (spessartine) and are underappreciated treasures.

Morganite

The ultimate soft pink stone, often paired with rose gold for a feminine, romantic look. Morganites are less traditional than diamonds, but deeply loved by those who want something different.

See some examples of our gemstone jewellery here. 

Why Choose Coloured Gemstones?

Here are just a few reasons why our clients are choosing colour:

• Individuality: No two stones are exactly alike. The shades, undertones, and inclusions make each one unique.
• Emotional connection: Many people choose a stone that reminds them of a loved one, a favourite place, or even a significant life moment.
• Birthstones: Adding birthstones into a ring or pendant can make a piece incredibly personal.
• Symbolism: Each gemstone has historic and cultural meanings. Emerald for wisdom, sapphire for fidelity, ruby for passion.
• Design freedom: Colour opens up endless design possibilities, complementary metals, contrasting side stones, unusual shapes.

Are Coloured Gemstones Suitable for Everyday Jewellery?

Absolutely, with a bit of expert guidance. Some stones are better suited for daily wear than others. Sapphires and rubies are second only to diamonds in hardness and durability. Spinel, and other semi precious gemstones are relatively robust.

Emeralds, while stunning, require a little more care. They are more prone to surface fractures and often benefit from being set in protective settings. That’s why bespoke design is key: we can create pieces that highlight the stone’s beauty while ensuring long-term wearability.

If you’re unsure, we’ll always guide you towards the best options for your lifestyle and preferences.

Combining Diamonds with Coloured Gemstones

One of our favourite design approaches is to combine the brilliance of diamonds with the character of coloured stones. Diamonds add contrast and sparkle, while the coloured gem serves as the focal point.

Think:

• A blue sapphire centre stone flanked by oval cut diamonds set in 18k yellow gold
• A wrap ring with beautiful rubies in the centre swirl and diamonds accenting both surrounding bands
• A pastel-toned tourmaline with delicate pavé diamond shoulders in 18ct rose gold

This interplay between the familiar and the unexpected is where true design magic happens.

Are Coloured Gemstones Valuable?

In many cases, yes, and sometimes even more so than diamonds. High-quality rubies, sapphires and emeralds can command incredible prices, especially when unheated or untreated. Provenance also adds value. A Kashmir sapphire, for instance, is one of the rarest and most valuable gems on earth.

That said, coloured stones are more complex to value than diamonds. Each stone is graded on its own merit, as there is no single universal scale. That’s why sourcing from a trusted expert is crucial. We know what to look for and how to assess a stone’s real value.

Certification for Coloured Gemstones

Yes, you can have coloured stones certified, especially the major ones like ruby, sapphire, and emerald. While GIA offers coloured gemstone grading, other respected labs include SSEF and AGL. Certification verifies whether a stone is natural, whether it has undergone any treatment, and where it may have originated.

Real Stories from Our Clients

Some of the most memorable pieces we’ve created have featured coloured gemstones. A few highlights:

• A blue sapphire engagement ring using the client’s late grandmother’s birthstone
• A remodelled green emerald ring made from a pair of antique earrings
• A trilogy ring with a pink spinel centre and tapered diamond baguettes for a wedding anniversary

Each one tells a story and each has been worn and loved for years.

So, is a Coloured Gemstone Right for You?

If you’re looking for something personal, meaningful and full of character, a coloured gemstone may be the perfect choice. It’s not about being flashy. It’s about authenticity. Style. Intuition. A little bit of rebellion against the expected.

Whether you want to build your dream engagement ring, add to your fine jewellery capsule, or create a one-off heirloom, we’re here to help you choose a gemstone that truly speaks to you.

Curious about incorporating coloured gemstones into your next piece?

Book a consultation with us and let’s design something unforgettable.

 

Thanks for reading,

The Diamond Expert