Diamond Cuts: Popular Diamond Shapes Explained
The shape of a diamond is so much more than just a style choice - it’s the sparkle, the silhouette, the personality of the entire piece. Whether you’re shopping for an engagement ring or dreaming up a bespoke design, choosing the right cut is where the magic begins.
In this guide, I break down the most popular diamond shapes - what they look like, how they shine, and who they suit best. From timeless classics to modern icons, consider this your shortcut to finding the one.
The Brilliant Cut Family
Round Brilliant Cut
The round brilliant cut diamond is the most iconic and popular diamond shape. With 57 perfectly aligned facets, it is engineered for maximum sparkle.
Why Choose It - Timeless, symmetrical, and the most brilliant cut available. Ideal for solitaire and other traditional engagement rings, such as a trilogy.
Did you know? It accounts for over 50% of all diamonds sold globally.
Watch me talk about my own 3cts round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring here!
Cushion Cut
A soft, rounded square shape with curved corners and a romantic, feminine feel. Often associated with vintage-inspired jewellery, but works beautifully in modern settings too.
Why Choose It - Romantic and timeless, with a warm sparkle and soft proportions.
Did you know? The cushion cut dates back over 200 years and was once called the “old mine cut.”
Looking for an elongated cushion cut, but don't love the price? I share our 'trick' for elongating a square cushion cut for a more affordable option here.
Oval Cut
Elegant and elongated, the oval diamond offers brilliance similar to a round but with a more modern silhouette. Its shape also gives the illusion of a larger stone.
Why Choose It - Sleek, flattering on the hand, and a popular choice for hidden halo and unusual three-stone designs.
Did you know? Its elongated shape can make fingers appear longer and slimmer.
Radiant Cut
Combines the elegance of an emerald shape with the fire of a brilliant cut. Available in square or rectangular variations.
Why Choose It - High brilliance with strong lines and a unique finish.
Did you know? The radiant cut was only developed in the 1970s, making it one of the newer cuts in the family.
Princess Cut
A square or rectangular shape with sharp corners and intense brilliance. A contemporary favourite with strong, geometric appeal.
Why Choose It - Bold and modern with a brilliant sparkle.
Did you know? Second only to round brilliants in popularity for engagement rings.
Pear Cut
Also called a teardrop diamond, this shape blends a round and marquise. Flattering, feminine, and unique.
Why Choose It - Modern, delicate, eye-catching, and perfect for east-west settings too.
Did you know? The pointed end should always face outward, toward the fingertip.
Marquise Cut
Long and narrow with pointed ends, the marquise cut was originally commissioned by King Louis XV.
Why Choose It - Dramatic, regal, and great for elongating the finger.
Did you know? It has one of the largest surface areas of any diamond shape, making it appear bigger per carat.
Heart Cut
A classic symbol of romance, the heart cut is less common but deeply meaningful. Requires expert cutting for perfect symmetry.
Why Choose It - A truly personal choice for bespoke rings and one-of-a-kind gifts.
Did you know? Precision matters - poor symmetry can significantly affect its appearance.
Love the idea of a heart cut diamond, but not sure you're ready to commit? Try heart shaped side stones - see here!
Criss Cut
A unique variation of the emerald cut, the Criss Cut, also called the ASHOKA®, features 77 crisscrossed facets that enhance brilliance while retaining a rectangular shape. It combines the elegance of an emerald cut with the sparkle of a brilliant cut - ideal for those who want something refined and unique.
Why Choose It - A sophisticated hybrid that offers both sparkle and structure, perfect for someone seeking a distinctive look.
Did you know? The Criss Cut was patented in the 1990s and is particularly known for its fire and scintillation, even with its elongated shape.
We don't come across a lot of these. Here I talk about why I was so excited to use this diamond cut for a client's engagement ring!
Trilliant Cut
Also called a Trillion Cut, this triangular diamond cut with either curved or straight sides. Usually used as side stones, but increasingly popular in bold solitaires.
Why Choose It - Edgy, contemporary, and great for a statement look.
Did you know? The cut maximises the diamond’s perceived size, making it appear larger than its carat weight.
The Step Cut Family
Emerald Cut
Known for its clean lines and long, elegant facets, the emerald cut reflects light in flashes rather than sparkle. Clarity is key with this cut.
Why Choose It - Elegant and understated with a refined, architectural look.
Did you know? Emerald cuts are often referred to as the ‘Hall of Mirrors’ due to their mesmerising flashes of light.
Asscher Cut
A square step-cut diamond with bold facets and a distinctive vintage feel. Think Gatsby glamour and Art Deco elegance.
Why Choose It - Vintage style with geometric elegance.
Did you know? It was first introduced in 1902 by the Asscher Brothers of Amsterdam.
Baguette Cut
A long, rectangular step cut is usually used as a side or accent stone, though also stunning in full eternity rings or bold modern bands.
Why Choose It - Clean, elegant, and minimal with a subtle, glassy sparkle.
Did you know? The name comes from the French word for 'stick' or 'rod'.
Carre Cut
A less common square step cut with fewer facets than the Asscher, offering a minimalist, mirror-like appearance.
Why Choose It - Crisp, architectural, and distinctly understated.
Did you know? Best set with protective settings due to its exposed corners.
Which Diamond Cut Is Right for You?
Choosing the perfect diamond cut is a deeply personal decision. It’s about your style, your hand shape, your budget, and how much finger coverage you would like. It’s the shape you haven’t been able to stop thinking about - the one that’s starred, saved, and pinned a hundred times.
Whether you’re drawn to the timeless sparkle of a round, the soft romance of a cushion, or the sleek sophistication of a step cut - we’ll guide you towards the cut that feels effortlessly, unmistakably you.
Want to learn more? Read more expert advice:
Ready to create your own bespoke beauty?
Book your consultation with me for tailored advice and expert support in person or online, or message me directly on WhatsApp for personal jewellery guidance.
Thanks so much for reading,
The Diamond Expert
