Why Choose 18ct Gold Over 14ct?

When it comes to fine jewellery, the gold you choose matters more than most people realise. At The Diamond Expert, we work primarily in 18ct gold and platinum - and that’s a conscious decision rooted in both luxury and longevity. While many jewellers, especially in the mass market, opt for 14ct gold or even 9ct in some cases, most luxury jewellers choose 18ct gold as it is the only true standard for fine jewellery. Here’s why:

What is 18ct Gold?

Gold purity is measured in carats, with 24ct representing pure gold. However, 24ct gold is too soft for most jewellery creations, so it’s mixed with other metals (alloys) to increase its strength. 18ct gold contains 75% pure gold and 25% alloy metals, while 14ct gold contains only 58.3% pure gold and 41.7% alloys.

The result? A purer, richer, and more luxurious metal that offers more beauty and durability.

The Visual Difference

One of the first things you’ll notice is the colour. 18ct gold has a warmer, more opulent tone than 14ct gold. Yellow gold appears richer, white gold has a more refined gleam, and rose gold carries a deeper blush. When you compare them side-by-side, 18ct gold simply looks more elegant and expensive - because it is.

While 14ct gold may look nice at a glance, its higher alloy content can make it appear duller over time. The colour lacks the depth and glow that 18ct offers naturally, and no amount of polishing or plating can replicate the authentic warmth of higher carat gold.

The Feel of Real Luxury

Luxury is about more than appearance, it’s about experience. 18ct gold feels more substantial. It’s weightier, smoother, and more comfortable against the skin. It gives a tactile sense of quality that 14ct simply can’t deliver.

Our clients often say that once they’ve worn 18ct gold, everything else feels underwhelming. This is especially important for pieces like engagement rings, wedding bands, and everyday necklaces - items that become part of your identity.

Durability: Strong Enough for Everyday, Pure Enough to Treasure

There’s a myth that 14ct gold is more durable because it has more alloy content. While it’s true that 14ct is harder, that doesn’t necessarily mean it will wear better over time. 18ct gold is strong enough to stand up to daily wear (especially in rings and bracelets) but is soft enough to allow for detailed hand-finishing, resizing, and engraving which is an important feature for bespoke jewellery.

Jewellery should be made to last a lifetime, or several! 18ct gold offers the best of both worlds: longevity and repairability. If you ever need your ring resized, your chain adjusted, or your piece restored, 18ct is far easier and safer to work with than lower carats.

Skin Sensitivity and Allergies

Another often-overlooked advantage of 18ct gold is its hypoallergenic properties. With a lower percentage of alloy metals, it’s far less likely to cause skin irritation or allergic reactions. 14ct gold, on the other hand, contains a higher proportion of metals like nickel and copper, which are common irritants.

If you have sensitive skin or are buying a gift for someone who does, 18ct is the more sensible choice.

Value Over Time

Although 14ct gold is cheaper at the point of purchase, it doesn’t retain its value as well. Because 18ct gold has a higher gold content, it carries greater intrinsic value. This matters if you ever want to have your piece remodelled, upgraded, or resold.

Jewellery made in 18ct gold is considered an investment, in both sentiment and substance. It speaks to a higher standard of craftsmanship, making your piece more desirable and collectible over time.

The Psychological Factor: A Subtle Statement of Quality

When you invest in a piece of fine jewellery, you want it to feel meaningful. For many of our clients, wearing 18ct gold is part of that emotional experience. It’s a reminder that they chose something better. That they were deliberate. That they didn’t settle.

It’s a subtle signal of luxury, not in a flashy or showy way, but in a way that only those who know, know.

Why Some Jewellers Don’t Use 18ct Gold

The simple answer? It’s more expensive. 18ct gold costs more to source and more to craft with. Some jewellers also lack the skill or equipment to work with it, especially when mass-producing jewellery.

By using 14ct, they can offer lower prices and higher margins. But the result is a compromise in both quality and luxury.

Our Non-Negotiable Standard

At The Diamond Expert, we don’t believe in compromise. We work exclusively in 18ct gold and platinum because we want every piece to meet the highest standard. This is not about snobbery, it’s about integrity. When a client comes to us, we want them to know they are getting the very best, every time.

From our engagement rings to our signature necklaces and remodelled heirlooms, every piece is crafted to last a lifetime and then some.

A Final Thought

You wouldn’t pair a designer dress with plastic shoes, or serve champagne in a paper cup. Jewellery is no different. If you’re investing in a beautiful diamond or bespoke design, it deserves to be set in a metal that matches in quality and prestige. 18ct gold is the gold standard for a reason. And once you wear it, you’ll never go back.

Would you like us to help you upgrade your 14ct piece to 18ct? Or design something bespoke from the start? We’re here to help! Get in touch for a private consultation today.

Thanks for reading,

The Diamond Expert